We’re not in Conway anymore
Maumelle location a shinier version of the original
Wednesday, July 2, 2008
Pasta House
1900 Club Manor Drive, Maumelle
(501) 803-3225
Maumelle's version of the Pasta House is like most things in that city: shiny, new and lacking that certain dilapidated character found in other towns.
Unlike the original Conway location, Maumelle's version is devoid of a fish tank, stray cats loitering about and Spanish soap operas.
While listening to the strains of Kenny G playing overhead, my dining companion likened it to “the elevator version” of the original.
Thankfully, the menu is relatively unchanged and perseveres in its signature Mexico-meets-Italy style of cooking.
For example, the Tuesday lunch special was shrimp, chicken, cilantro and jalapenos in a white sauce served over fettucine. Wednesday is lasagna rolls.
Italian enchiladas, anyone?
Because Mexican and Italian cuisine are often just the same ingredients served in different forms, combining the two seemingly doubles the options. And the three-page menu in very small type would take most diners the better part of a lunch hour to sift through.
Some of the more interesting dishes: a crabcake sandwich with fries; a tomato and mozzarella dish served over balsamic vinegar and Worcestershire sauce; and an Italian quesadilla that basically replaces fajita meat with sausage and adds a dollop of marinara.
Though I gave up perusing the menu rather early and ordered the day's special, I was a little disappointed when the waiters whisked it away. I wanted to search for more quirky dishes to order next time.
Like the Conway version, the Maumelle location brings a basket of hot bread and herbed butter to the table once the entrees have been ordered. And just like chips and salsa, it’s free.
I had barely finished buttering my first slice when my salad arrived — this comes with the lunch special. It was topped with house Italian, shredded carrots, cucumbers and green apples. Being one who likes fruit on her salad, I thought the apples thoroughly complemented the dressing, which was like regular Italian with sugar added.
About a minute after my green apple discovery, the entrees arrived.
Our booth table was suddenly covered in plates.
I was disappointed to find my Tuesday special came without the promised jalapenos, but the shrimp was well cooked and the white sauce was creamy, so I decided not all was lost.
No parmesan cheese was offered for our plates, and the dining tables held only the little squat shakers of red pepper flakes without their white cheese counterparts.
As we ate, our eyes strayed to the daytime programming on the two televisions hung in the corners of the restaurant.
We learned Toni Braxton would soon reveal something scandalous to Montel Williams.
The wood-top tables and red booths and chairs held a few people when we arrived around 12:45, but about 10 minutes later, the lunch rush was over and the restaurant was nearly empty.
Apparently, Pasta House offers Maumelle's working stiffs a quick sit-down lunch — even a table of six was seemingly in and out in record time.
We saved no room for dessert, and probably because we were taking pictures and writing things down, the wait staff tried hard to sell us something sweet.
One employee went so far as to bring out the “To Die For” dessert in an effort to change our minds. This dish has layers of strawberry, blueberry and raspberry with lady fingers soaked in rum, peach schnapps, Sprite and orange juice. Then it's mixed with a cream cheese filling and topped with homemade almond torte.
Despite the visual aid, we still didn't order it.
But anyone who can effectively return to work after a lunch ending in a “To Die For” is a better woman than I.
The restaurant also has homemade cheesecake, carrot cake and crème brulee.



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