Classy, not stuffy
Argenta Seafood Company a tasty addition to Argenta.
Wednesday, July 9, 2008
There's a lot to like about the bustling, revitalized Main Street of downtown North Little Rock, especially with the addition of one of the newer kids on the block, the Argenta Seafood Company. The restaurant is the second venture of chef Eric Issac and brother Brian, who also are the proprietors of Ristorante Capeo just one block south.
Located in what was a tire outlet and then a teak furniture store, Argenta Seafood still bears some evidence of its heritage: two large garage doors turned into windows in the main dining room. These give ample light for an open, airy feel, complemented by bright squash-colored walls decorated with portraits of sea life, both plant and animal, illuminated by recessed lights. Throughout the dining room, you'll see sheets of white cloth stretched tight, anchored to the ceiling by invisible wire. These seem to serve both to divide the expansive dining room space and to recall the sails on a boat. Potted plants that we couldn’t identify keep patrons from tripping over the floor anchors. Whatever the plants were, they looked a little seaweed-like (in its natural environment, not once it's washed up on the beach and all slimy and limp). Overall, it combines for a neat, classy effect.
But don't get too caught up in that word “classy.” Sure, it's a great description for the place, but don't think that means it feels stiff. Though the wait staff are dressed in crisp white tops with khaki pants and black aprons, diners can feel comfortable here in more casual attire.
Though the menu is subject to change, it's a good bet (based on the establishment's name) that you'll find it mostly dominated by seafood, as we did on a recent Wednesday evening. No shock, several varieties of fish and shellfish were offered, as well as dishes with chicken, pork and beef for landlubbers.
We opted for a special of the house, a “fixed price” meal at $25 that includes an appetizer, entree and dessert. We chose the seafood egg rolls to start things off, the Mahi Mahi with a honey and ginger glaze as a main course, and the three chocolate mousse to top it all off. One of our companions who also took the fixed-price option opted for the dinner salad, salmon with orange hoisin glaze and the mousse. The third in our party went with the blue crab chimichanga served with rice ($23).
Our flaky, tender fish had a fantastic grilled taste, though the glaze seemed heavier on lime than honey or ginger, and the mousse was sinfully rich enough we know it couldn't have been good for us. But the real highlight of the meal was the two egg rolls, a mix of shrimp, pork and chicken deep fried as you'd expect, but served with a delicious “spicy dipping sauce” that was reminiscent of sweet and sour sauce, only more flavorful and complex. We'd also give a gold star to our companion's chimichanga. We got only one bite, but it was enough to inspire order envy. Hopefully, it will still be on the menu next time we visit.
If that doesn't pan out, though, patrons say there's still plenty to choose from.
“We've never had anything we didn't like here,” said Beth Drake, who was dining with her husband Michael, the director of Main Street Argenta, a downtown revitalization nonprofit organization.
Given his role, Michael Drake admitted he is biased, but says he knew from the first pitch to put a restaurant at the location — before it was even decided it would serve seafood — it would be a welcome addition to Main Street, augmenting the other attractions and dining options. Case in point, Drake said he sent links to the Web sites for Argenta Seafood and Ristorante Capeo to a younger couple in Little Rock asking him about downtown dining north of the river, and they told him they chose the newer restaurant for its laid back, cosmopolitan feel.
The Drakes said they stop in two or three times a month and especially enjoy the broad windows in the dining room and along the front of the building, where the full bar is located.
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