By Shannon Sturgis The dining room at Dizzy's Gypsy Bistro downtown has Mardi Gras-esque colors and art on the walls.

LITTLE ROCK — Dizzy’s Gypsy Bistro

200 Commerce St., Little Rock

(501) 375-3500

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday

It’s a little odd to see a restaurant pack up shop and move when it’s been firmly established in the same place for more than a decade. Oh sure, sometimes they’ll outgrow their original space and end up searching for a larger building, ideally somewhere within a few blocks of the original or, worse, on the other side of town. But to up and haul off to a whole new city?

That may be the best explanation for why Dizzy’s Grill and Bistro, a 12-year staple in Benton and that city’s first establishment licensed to sell liquor in dry Saline County, is now called Dizzy’s Gypsy Bistro in its new River Market location, in the space where Mike Selig’s Vermillion Water Grille used to be.

But in addition to that remarkable migration, there’s a great deal more at Dizzy’s that seems just a little unconventional, making “gypsy” an excellent adjective to insert into the eatery’s name.

For starters, it doesn’t have the flashy President Clinton Avenue address that others nearby do. Instead it’s a couple blocks removed from the main thoroughfare and located inside the Arkansas Commerce Center building.

Inside the restaurant, the space between bar area and main dining room is broken up by the bar itself. A large patio off the bar offers fair weather seating.

Those familiar with the eclectic mix of art found in the old Benton Dizzy’s will not be disappointed at the colorful collection of abstracts, landscapes and still lifes on display at the new place. From dancers and horses to vases and houses, it’s all here in all manner of style and media. That same erratic mix also can be seen in the lighting, provided by a hodgepodge of chandeliers made of things like wine bottles. Hanging mobile-like objects of what look to be colored glass and layered tablecloths of yellow and purple all combine to give the place a certain Mardi Gras vibe, or at least a laid back “let the good times roll” feel.

Probably one of the most unique and enjoyable oddities of this off-the-wall eatery is the menu. A mix of standard American, a touch of European and a dash of Cajun combine for a creative display of things like burgundy mushrooms and beef nachos on the same page. There are quiches and baked potatoes, along with pastas, salads, sandwiches and a dinner menu that wanders from quesadillas to stroganoff to crawfish étouffée.

But the funny thing about Dizzy’s menu is that, as varied as it is, you still can’t expect everything to be as it seems. Looking for a French dip served au jus? How about a Sicilian dip with alfredo instead?

Little quirks like that may be bound to show up with almost anything ordered. The good news is they’re not being different just for the sake of being different. And that’s a rare treat — a restaurant that unquestionably has its own outside-the-box point of view and still makes a darn tasty meal. The already eclectic River Market dining scene certainly won’t be worse for having Dizzy’s perspective added to it.

Then again, what else can one expect from a place that’s already proven itself a success just a little ways down the freeway?

The Dish:

Three Cheese Dip ($8.99): “Nine bucks for a bowl of cheese dip?” you say, no doubt with some indignation. I was where you are once. Then I ordered it. And my life is better for it. Creamy and almost cream cheese like, this dip is unlike any other my dining partner or I have ever had and ranks up there with the best (in my book). Served in an enormous though shallow bowl, stuffed with spices and garnished with a touch of delicious cilantro salsa, this dip is simply a must-order. But be warned, you might actually feel your arteries closing up afterward. Just know it’s worth it.

Adam Carter’s Sicilian Dip ($8.99): I’m not sure who Adam Carter is, but he certainly knows how to make a sandwich piled high with roast beef and mozzarella. He also knows that serving such a delicious sandwich au jus pales when compared to the thick and creamy alfredo that comes with this one. Health conscious? Hardly, but worth it 10 times over as an occasional extravagance — and for a fair price.

Country Club Sandwich ($8.99): This sandwich was tall with generous layers of ham and turkey. I'm sure the bacon was in there somewhere. The bread was buttered and probably toasted but that really didn't help the sandwich hold together when the slippery mustard, pickles and tomato came into play. Overall this club was tasty and priced well. I'd order it again. It must be noted the "Parmesan fries" were basically just regular fries with grated Parmesan sprinkled on the top. They were good, but not as Parmesan-y as expected.

Chicken Spaghetti ($14.99): The Chicken Spaghetti would better be described as chicken nachos atop pasta. The dish was decadent in presentation as well as toppings. It was delicious, yes, but don't plan on doing anything with your life for the next few hours if you finish the whole thing.