There are sports bars and then there are sports bars. At one, you grab a beer and take in the game on TV. At the other, you grab a beer and take in the game on TV but are surrounded by an actual sporting venue and there is an actual playing field only a few dozen or so yards away. Ump’s Pub and Grill at Dickey-Stephens Park, open whether there’s an Arkansas Travelers game going on or not, falls into this latter category. Of course, being inside a ballpark, even with independent access to the sidewalk, means there’s no parking right at the door. But there are spots on the west side of the stadium less than a block away (at least, that’s where I parked) and the hike from there is far from taxing. Though originally opened as a fine dining establishment, the relatively new sports bar identity really seems a better fit for the place, even if it is a little open and bright for a bar. That’s thanks to a large glass front entrance and an even larger glass back wall looking out into the stadium. Since you’re at concourse level, it’s a little hard to see the field itself while seated, but the view out over the Little Rock skyline — the sweeping Broadway Bridge, the majestic Peabody Hotel — is absolutely deserving of a few gratuitous adjectives. Overhead, large lamps shaped like half baseballs, stitches and all, add their glow to the ambient daylight, for an overall airy feel. On the walls a mixed bag of black and white baseball photos and Travs pennants give the appropriate ambiance and, as noted, there are a few large flat screens, most likely tuned to sports. There’s a full bar to pull up to just to the right of the entrance, or a healthy mix of large and small tables of dark wood, with contemporary design chairs that, according to my dining companion, don’t really match. I disagreed, and I have to confess I felt the overwhelming urge to get in her face and argue that call until I was thrown out. I might have taken a few tables with me, or tossed my napkin like a grenade, Phil Wellman style. Okay not really. Settling down to the lunch menu, it’s a surprise to see the appetizer selection is really anything but typical bar food. There are fried pickles ($4.95), which you might find at a few places, particularly in the South, but also crab cakes ($7.95), mussels ($9.95) and mushroom ravioli ($8.95). All tempting selections, sure, but where are the nachos? This is a sports bar. In a ballpark. Be that as it may, the rest of the lunch menu contains salads, sandwiches and a rotating daily plate lunch special. The salad variety is limited to three, but includes your regular house or Caesar ($3.95 and $4.95, respectively) as well as the much fancier salmon salad ($9.95). The sandwiches are served with fries or chips and include the basics — burger, club, Reuben and French dip (all $7.95) — but also have some more exotic varieties: Italian beef ($7.95), a Caprese sandwich of tomatoes, mozzarella and pesto ($6.95) and fish tacos ($7.95). I’m not sure that last one is a sandwich, but that’s where it’s listed. The daily plate specials, in order from Monday to Friday, are: lasagna, chicken spaghetti, Salisbury steak, chicken and dumplings and fried catfish and are $6.95 every day. OUR REVIEWS: Frisco Fried Pickles ($4.95): Sliced into chips (as opposed to spears) and heavily dipped in what I think must be a corn meal-based batter, these fried pickles were excellent, a fitting tribute to the state where legend has it the dish was invented. The thicker slices and heavy batter gave each one a healthy size, and made them great for dipping in the signature Gland Slam Sauce, a delicious mix of horseradish and a little something sweet. While I think the quantity for the price was fine, I sure wouldn’t have minded a few more of them in the order. Plate special of chicken and dumplings ($6.95): The Thursday special of chicken and dumplings was obviously homemade. The dumplings had that snowflake quality where every one was special and different. They were large pasta-like pieces of dumpling floating in a tasty broth with chunks of chicken and lots of bright green parsley. The dish was well-flavored, not too salty, and the portion was just enough. On the side was what looked to be a homemade roll. The meal was perfect for a brisk fall day, and I’d order it again any day. Italian Beef Sandwich ($7.95): Though ordered with fried, the sandwich came out with chips, which were nicely salted but a little overdone to my tastes. The sandwich itself was a massive mound of shredded beef, melted mozzarella and a colorful cornucopia giardiniera — a mix of pickled vegetables in vinegar. It started strong, with a fiery kick thanks to the giardiniera, but by about halfway through the condiment seemed to really be taking over (full disclosure: I’m not the biggest veggie fan to start with). Going again I’d ask for it on the side or consider the French dip instead. YOUR REVIEWS: Been to Ump’s for lunch or dinner? Text your mini-reviews to “sync food” at 86156. We’ll print the best in next week’s issue. We’ll also be accepting text reviews for other restaurants we’ve recently visited: Riviera Maya, SpeakEasy and Salut! Send them to “sync food” at 86156. Include the restaurant’s name and your name to get full credit.